Updated September 2026. Written from Seoul.
Cushion foundation is the product most likely to confuse a first-time buyer of Korean makeup. The compacts are everywhere in Korea, the shade names look like codes, and you cannot swatch them in a store abroad. This guide explains what a cushion is, how Korean shade numbering works, and how to choose a shade online with a reasonable chance of getting it right.
What a cushion foundation actually is
A cushion is a compact with a sponge soaked in liquid foundation and a separate puff to apply it. You press the puff into the sponge, then pat it onto the skin. Koreans switched to cushions in large numbers because the format is fast, easy to reapply during the day, and gives a natural, slightly dewy finish that suits the way makeup is worn here. Coverage is usually light to medium; full-coverage cushions exist but are the minority.
Why Korean shade ranges look narrow
Most Korean cushions come in a handful of shades, often just three to six. That is because they were developed for the domestic market, where skin tones cluster in a narrower band than in the United States. The good news is that the popular brands have expanded their ranges in recent years and now offer deeper shades. The important thing is to understand the numbering rather than the count.
How Korean shade numbers work
Korean brands mostly use a two-digit system: 13, 17, 21, 23, 25, 27, and so on. Lower numbers are lighter, higher numbers are deeper. Two numbers appear far more than the rest:
- 21 is the standard "light" shade. It is the best seller for most brands in Korea.
- 23 is the standard "medium" shade, and the second best seller.
Some brands add a letter for undertone: N for neutral, C for cool or pink, W for warm or yellow. So "21N" is a light neutral, "23W" a medium warm. If a shade has no letter, it usually leans slightly warm, because that is the most common undertone in Korea.
Mapping Korean numbers to what you already wear
A rough translation, which is the way people here explain it to visiting friends:
- If you wear the lightest or second-lightest shade in Western ranges, look at 13 to 21.
- If you wear a light-medium shade, start at 21 or 23.
- If you wear a medium to tan shade, start at 23 to 27, and check whether the brand offers 30 and above.
- If you wear deeper shades, stick to brands that publish an extended range; many mainstream Korean cushions will not go deep enough.
This is a starting point, not a guarantee. The rest of this guide is about narrowing it down.
Four ways to pick a shade without trying it on
1. Use the brand's official swatch chart, not the product photo
Product photos of the compact tell you nothing about the shade. Look for the brand's arm swatch chart, which most Korean brands publish on their own sites and on Olive Young. Compare the neighbors: if 21 looks too light and 23 too dark, 21 is usually the safer pick, because cushions oxidize slightly darker after an hour.
2. Check the undertone letter first
A shade that is the right depth but the wrong undertone looks worse than one that is slightly off in depth. If you know you are cool-toned, prefer C or N shades even if the number is a step lighter than you expected.
3. Read the reviews for "too pink" or "too yellow"
Korean review sections are full of comments about undertone, and the pattern is consistent across brands. If many reviewers say a shade turned pink on them, cool-toned buyers can trust it and warm-toned buyers should avoid it.
4. Buy the refill, not the compact, for your first test
Most Korean cushions sell refills separately at a lower price. Buying a refill to test the shade, then the full compact once you know it works, is a common money-saving habit here.
Finish types: glow, matte, and "semi"
Korean cushions are labeled by finish, and this matters as much as shade. Glow cushions give a dewy, hydrated look and suit dry skin. Matte cushions last longer and suit oily skin. "Semi-matte" or "natural" sits in between and is the safest first choice if you are unsure.
Two things that surprise first-time buyers
- Coverage is lighter than expected. A Korean "medium coverage" cushion is often what a Western brand would call light. If you want to hide a lot, look for "cover" in the product name.
- The puff matters. Patting, not swiping, is the technique. Swiping drags the product and leaves streaks.
FAQ
What is the most common Korean cushion shade?
21 in most brands, followed by 23. If you are unsure and have light to light-medium skin, 21 is the usual starting point.
Do Korean cushions oxidize?
Slightly, yes. Many settle a touch darker after wear, which is why choosing the lighter of two close options is common advice.
Can I use a cushion over my regular sunscreen?
Yes. Koreans apply sunscreen first, wait a minute, then pat the cushion on top.
For where to buy and what shipping to the US involves, see our Olive Young Global ordering guide. For the routine that goes underneath, read the Korean skincare routine order guide.
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